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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

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    The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

    For the Watches & Wonders 2023 season, Jaeger-LeCoultre released several new Reverso watches, including the new Reverso Chronograph that debuted in the 60th Anniversary Edition series launched in the 1990s. The new Reverso Tribute chronograph is available in stainless steel or rose gold.

    It has been a while since Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced fully mechanical hand-wound chronographs. The last one in recent memory was the Squadra chronograph, but this one had an automatic movement. Released in 2006, the Squadra is now out of production, but it is a polarizing model for collectors, as the square shape of the Squadra case may not be as popular as the rectangular Reverso case. It was the first watch to have a square dial, and JLC applied for a patent for the design but was rejected. It turned out that René-Alfred Chauvot, the designer of the first Reverso case, patented the square case back in 1931, but it was never actually produced.

    The Reverso Soixantième (1991), the centerpiece of the 60th Anniversary Collection, has a rose gold case and rose gold movement. The same collection also includes other notable pieces, including the Tourbillon (1993), the Minute Repeater (1994), the Retrograde Chronograph (1996), the Géographique GMT from 1998 and the 2000 Perpetual calendar
    replica best watches.

    We’ve told this story before, but it’s time to repeat that the Reverso’s complex Grand Taille case came about when Günter Blümlein, who had just taken over as owner of the watchmaker at the time, asked the watchmaker to create a Reverso with a complex movement. The answer is no, because the watchmaker told him that there is not enough space. To this, Blümlein responded casually and brilliantly: "Well, make the case bigger!" The Grande Taille case was born and, as they say, the rest is history.

    Case, Dial and Hands
    The case of the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph measures 49.4 x 29.9mm and is 11.14mm high, which is larger than the original Grand Taille’s 42.2 x 26.1mm case and 9.5mm high. But the proportions are well chosen and the watch doesn't look big or bulky. But still very wearable and slim on the wrist.

    The case retains the gardoons at the top and bottom, which make up the dial. As usual, the case sits on slides that move over a solid case back secured to the lugs.

    The dial on the first side is in a very standard but beautiful Art Deco style, which is what Reverso watches are known for. The stainless steel model we chose has a sunburst brushed blue dial. The blue is kind of in between a light pastel, but in a deeper shade, not quite indigo, but glamorous. The hour markers are appliques with arrow-shaped ends. This coincides with the Dauphiné hands for hours and minutes. A railway track marking the seconds hand wraps around the rectangular dial, completing the indications. The JLC logo and nameplate are located below the 12 o'clock marker.

    The rose gold version has the same dial. But with a black sunburst finish. The metal dial is very shiny and looks round. Contrasted with rose gold markers, hands and case sides.

    Flipping the case over, we can see the business side of the chronograph. Unlike the 1996 version, which only had chronograph indications on the back, the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph moves the time indications to the back. This required modifications to the movement. But otherwise, the new model offers the same chronograph indications. The central seconds hand records the chrono seconds, and the retrograde 30-minute totalizer records the elapsed minutes. Another big difference between the 1996 model and the 2023 model is that the former has a fan-shaped power reserve indicator on the main dial to show whether the chronograph is stopped or started, while the latter lacks this indicator.

    Movement: Caliber 860
    The movement is Caliber 860. As usual, the movement is designed and manufactured in-house at the JLC Manufacture in Le Sentier. The movement is a derivative of the original Caliber 829, introduced in 1996 and designed by Manuel Guerin. The differences are as mentioned - the lack of a chronograph running indicator, and the addition of a time display on the reversed dial. Movement is also amplified.

    Movement finishing is very good. We think it might be more refined than the regular "Plain Jane" Reverso. The column wheel is visible on the inverted dial around 7 o'clock and is visually balanced with the balance wheel at 5 o'clock. The rear dial is open and the pointed appliquéd hour markers now float above the movement, seemingly pointing towards the chronograph seconds indicator. A touch of red adds subtle but eye-catching color highlights.

    The chronograph feels very good to operate. Since this is a column wheel controlled chronograph, starting, stopping and resetting feel the same with a nice, light but positive pressure actuation. The clutch is horizontal to keep the movement low and has the small characteristic chronograph jump when activated.

    The territory of the hand-wound mechanical chronograph is indeed very large. But one of the two-sided cases is very limited.

    The case flip mechanism requires the watch to be removed from the wrist as the entire case rotates around a pivot located in the middle of the case. The watch only shows the chronograph readings on the reverse side. The movement that Hamilton designated as the H41 was a derivative of the Valjoux 7750.

    Compared to the 60th Anniversary Reverso Chronograph, the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph uses the same movement as the base – Caliber 829, but modified to allow the time to be displayed on two dials. 1996 Rose gold limited edition of 500 pieces.

    The front is a traditional Reverso with a date window at 6 o'clock and a chronograph run/stop indicator at 5 o'clock showing "Marche" and "Arret" ("Start" and "Stop"). The dial is guilloché rather than the sunburst finish found on both Tribute models. On the back, the dial is partially skeletonized to reveal a large dial above a retrograde scale at 6 o'clock, much like a Tribute chronograph seconds hand. See the image below of this spectacular 1996 chronograph, courtesy of SteveG.

    We've come to the conclusion after using the JLC Reverso Tribute Chronograph for a while that we're impressed. This is a very beautiful timepiece. The aesthetics on either side of the dial are almost as convincing. The front dial is simple yet Art Deco. The rear dial has the mechanical beauty of an exposed movement.

    This is one of the top picks for the Watches & Wonders 2023 show. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph ranks among the top 3 watches from Robin Lim, Chester Lau and Kunal Khemka. Even though it wasn't mine, it was certainly one of the highlights of the show for me.

    Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Specifications
    case
    stainless steel/rose gold

    Dimensions (L x W): 49.4 x 29.9mm Thickness: 11.14mm

    waterproof
    3 bar

    direct dial
    Appliquéd hour markers, blue/black, radial brushed finish

    reverse dial
    Black, Cream, Appliquéd Hour Markers

    tape
    The watch comes with two straps:

    Calfskin, navy/gray
    Calfskin, black
    Interchangeable: Yes

    Lug Width: 22mm Length 12h: 75mm Length 6h: 120mm

    buckle
    Double folding clasp Steel clasp Width: 20mm

    Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 860
    Cartesian function
    hours - minutes

    Negative function
    30 Minutes Counter, Hours - Minutes Same Front/Back, Chronograph, Chronograph

    move
    Manual winding, vibrations per hour: 28800, jewels: 38, barrel: 1, thickness: 5.5 mm, power reserve: 52 hours
     

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